Annapurna Circuit
The trek we decided to do is a loop that slowly climbs as it twists around the Himalayan region of the Annapurna mountains to reach a high point of 5416m above sea level. At this height one crosses over one of the highest passes in the world called Thorong La. The trail then continues, first abruptly and then gently down again until you are back at around 800m above sea level. It is called the Annapurna Circuit and it is considered to be one of the most famous and most beautiful trekking routes in the world.
We began trekking on the last day one could without guide or porter so we were the last independent trekkers these mountains will see until that policy is changed. We estimated about 3 weeks and completed the 200km plus hike in 19 days. One can do it in fewer days but Johan suffered a bit of congestion on the upward half of the trek and Janine the same on the descending stretch so we had to factor in an extra 3 days of resting to regain our health. We also took the recommended acclimatization day off in the village of Manang ( 3500m.a.s.l) and generally took our days in a leisurely manner - enjoying the views, village restaurants and hotels along the way.
The hike was simply spectacular. We were both in our element and to Janine's surprise the hiking was easy, the hotels comfortable and cute and the menus extensive! Mint and ginger tea featured a lot in our days as well as rice pudding, Tibetan bread, tomato soup, chicken sandwiches, pastas, barley porridge and chapatis. There were also 'German' bakeries along the way (we kid you not) where we could get great apple pie, cinnamon rolls and chocolate danishes. Besides the 3.5kg of sweets Janine carried up into the mountain (since Johan had insisted that it would be too expensive to purchase sweets in the mountains) we were able to buy chocolates en even a jar of chocolate spread along the way!
Where towns had not already been connected to a power grid there were often solar-powered showers along the way. We both thought we would go through the 3 icy weeks without a shower but we had many - and many of them hot! Johan insisted on on-suite rooms wherever we could find one and, in short, we lived like kings - and all this well within our budget.
There were technicalities to contend with. The cold (and the ice - especially over the pass) was a big one. There were moments when Johan sincerely believed that we would not make the night in our explorer 850 sleeping bags. With layers of clothing and extra blankets we always did though. The trains of pack-mules passing through that had to be side stepped on regular occasion - sometimes on very precarious stretches of mountain trail - was another that got a bit much sometimes. We estimate having passed about 750 mules at least on our trek! Descending the other side of the pass (where one drops from 5400masl to 3800masl in just over 3 hours) was the worst of the feats we had to execute - especially over the ice patches. Acute Mountains Sickness (caused by high altitude body fluid complications that can affect the brain and lungs and is often fatal) is a big problem in this region. We attended a lecture on the topic in Manang, took our diamox, drank lots of water and ascended slowly. No problems. Body odour is another slight problem as we had only one set of hiking clothes for the 19 days...
One thing that really boggles the mind is the culture of burden carrying in Nepal. More goods are transported by people than any other mode of transport. In the mountains one sees men (and women) carrying unbelievable loads by means of a strap over their foreheads - nothing else. They move, often barefoot, with the agility of mountain goats and at speeds that put all other hikers to shame. Another oddity was the lack of crowds. While this year was supposed to be better than the rock-bottom previous two years, there were often long stretches where we did not encounter other hikers at all. Hotel rooms were always easy to secure and there were even occasions where we were the only occupants.
The scenery changed with each day - warmer rice plantations to higher pine plantations, through a cloud forest belt and into sparser upper reaches - right up until there remained no plant life at all - just surroundings of enormous mountains - almost all over 7000masl and some over 8000masl! Most of the trail follows near the glacial rivers which never ceased to impress us.
We decided to take the most western route out of the circuit towards Beni and also caught a jeep and bus for the last stretch (saved us 6 hours of walking). Once in Beni we caught a taxi and about 2.5 hours later we were back in Pokhara - filthy once again and ready for our bath!!! We managed to find a huge more upmarket room (R140 per night) in a very central hotel (yes, for less than half price) with a bath. After a good clean we were ready for our post-trekking celebration meal. A truly blissful way to end one of the most amazing things that we have ever done. What a privilege and also to be able to do it independently and with your most favourite person in the whole world!
We began trekking on the last day one could without guide or porter so we were the last independent trekkers these mountains will see until that policy is changed. We estimated about 3 weeks and completed the 200km plus hike in 19 days. One can do it in fewer days but Johan suffered a bit of congestion on the upward half of the trek and Janine the same on the descending stretch so we had to factor in an extra 3 days of resting to regain our health. We also took the recommended acclimatization day off in the village of Manang ( 3500m.a.s.l) and generally took our days in a leisurely manner - enjoying the views, village restaurants and hotels along the way.
The hike was simply spectacular. We were both in our element and to Janine's surprise the hiking was easy, the hotels comfortable and cute and the menus extensive! Mint and ginger tea featured a lot in our days as well as rice pudding, Tibetan bread, tomato soup, chicken sandwiches, pastas, barley porridge and chapatis. There were also 'German' bakeries along the way (we kid you not) where we could get great apple pie, cinnamon rolls and chocolate danishes. Besides the 3.5kg of sweets Janine carried up into the mountain (since Johan had insisted that it would be too expensive to purchase sweets in the mountains) we were able to buy chocolates en even a jar of chocolate spread along the way!
Where towns had not already been connected to a power grid there were often solar-powered showers along the way. We both thought we would go through the 3 icy weeks without a shower but we had many - and many of them hot! Johan insisted on on-suite rooms wherever we could find one and, in short, we lived like kings - and all this well within our budget.
There were technicalities to contend with. The cold (and the ice - especially over the pass) was a big one. There were moments when Johan sincerely believed that we would not make the night in our explorer 850 sleeping bags. With layers of clothing and extra blankets we always did though. The trains of pack-mules passing through that had to be side stepped on regular occasion - sometimes on very precarious stretches of mountain trail - was another that got a bit much sometimes. We estimate having passed about 750 mules at least on our trek! Descending the other side of the pass (where one drops from 5400masl to 3800masl in just over 3 hours) was the worst of the feats we had to execute - especially over the ice patches. Acute Mountains Sickness (caused by high altitude body fluid complications that can affect the brain and lungs and is often fatal) is a big problem in this region. We attended a lecture on the topic in Manang, took our diamox, drank lots of water and ascended slowly. No problems. Body odour is another slight problem as we had only one set of hiking clothes for the 19 days...
One thing that really boggles the mind is the culture of burden carrying in Nepal. More goods are transported by people than any other mode of transport. In the mountains one sees men (and women) carrying unbelievable loads by means of a strap over their foreheads - nothing else. They move, often barefoot, with the agility of mountain goats and at speeds that put all other hikers to shame. Another oddity was the lack of crowds. While this year was supposed to be better than the rock-bottom previous two years, there were often long stretches where we did not encounter other hikers at all. Hotel rooms were always easy to secure and there were even occasions where we were the only occupants.
The scenery changed with each day - warmer rice plantations to higher pine plantations, through a cloud forest belt and into sparser upper reaches - right up until there remained no plant life at all - just surroundings of enormous mountains - almost all over 7000masl and some over 8000masl! Most of the trail follows near the glacial rivers which never ceased to impress us.
We decided to take the most western route out of the circuit towards Beni and also caught a jeep and bus for the last stretch (saved us 6 hours of walking). Once in Beni we caught a taxi and about 2.5 hours later we were back in Pokhara - filthy once again and ready for our bath!!! We managed to find a huge more upmarket room (R140 per night) in a very central hotel (yes, for less than half price) with a bath. After a good clean we were ready for our post-trekking celebration meal. A truly blissful way to end one of the most amazing things that we have ever done. What a privilege and also to be able to do it independently and with your most favourite person in the whole world!
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