Amazonian killer pigs
We planned to rest the day after we returned from the pampas trip. On the way to the internet we walked past Madidi Travel agency who have their own lodge deep in the jungle where we wanted to stay for a few days. As we popped in they told us that they were leaving within the hour - we decided there and then to join on the condition that we get our own room for the price of a dorm bed room.
After just under 3 hours motoring down the Rio Beni river, we reached the footpath to the camp, some 30 minutes further into the jungle. This eco-lodge was the brainchild of Rosa Maria Luiz, a camp fighter for eco-tourism in Bolivia and who played the main role in getting the Madidi National Park established amidst incredible opposition (oil and logging companies). She was also featured in the March 2000 article in National Geographic. Unfortunately she could not be at the lodge as she was in La Paz recovering after an attach by a cayman (like a croc) in the dam in front of the lodge where we were staying.
The main building is a huge open plan construction with no real walls, but only heavy duty gauze like netting. There is also a beautiful dam full of piranhas and a few caymans. The lodge was named after the serere bird, something that looks like a confused chicken.
At the camp we were upgraded yet again (!) to the most luxurious cabin - again no walls, except the netting - deep in the jungle.
There were 2 local spider monkeys hanging around the camp - they were very playful and, of cause, very naughty (they like to ride on the backs of the local pigs). We went paddling on the dam in the late afternoon - spectacularly beautiful with absolutely no wind and all the loud sounds of nature around us. The 10 minute walk in the night to the cabins in jaguar country was quite nerve-wrecking at first (for Johan at least). The night is alive with countless insects and animal noises and fireflies. Janine was thrilled to discover that you can locate insects at night by the reflections of their eyes - as with the alligators in the pampas. The jaguars come to visit the cabins most nights and one can hear then walking and grunting. The drops of the humidity condensing on the jungle leaves sound like rain during the night.
We went on a few guided walks with a brilliant local guide called Rudolfo. Our spanish is at a stage where we could easily follow him and even play the role of interpreters for the other 4 guests. We saw a huge 3m cobra, lots of different types of monkeys, leave cutter ants, huge metallic blue butterflies, macaws and a variety of insects and fresh jaguar prints. Some of the ants ( 2.5cm long) have a bite that burns for 8 hours. Other ants have such strong pinchers that they are used by the local people for stitches. Then there are the vicious wild pigs called piccaries - they are also referred to as "killer pigs" as they have eaten people alive (and the but of a man from Rurrenabaque who could not get quickly enough up a tree). The afternoon was spend relaxing and fishing piranhas - quite bigger than those in the pampas and a bright yellow this time!
We also went on a night walk with our guide. We often had to switch off our lights to listen. Incredible not to be able to see 30cm in front of you. We were eventually tracking a jaguar mom and her cubs. We came very close (probably 20m) and, although we could not see them in the bush, it was quite clear from her grunts that she did not appreciate our presence.
We made some jungle jewelry from nuts and seeds and also tattoos (lasting a few days) from the juice of a tropical fruit. Our guide knows the jungle inside out and showed us many different types of medicinal plants and also how to get a few liters of pure water out of a certain tree's branches.
We were sad to leave such a beautiful and unspoilt place even after we extended our stay with another day... (visit www.madidi-travel.com for more pics and info)
After just under 3 hours motoring down the Rio Beni river, we reached the footpath to the camp, some 30 minutes further into the jungle. This eco-lodge was the brainchild of Rosa Maria Luiz, a camp fighter for eco-tourism in Bolivia and who played the main role in getting the Madidi National Park established amidst incredible opposition (oil and logging companies). She was also featured in the March 2000 article in National Geographic. Unfortunately she could not be at the lodge as she was in La Paz recovering after an attach by a cayman (like a croc) in the dam in front of the lodge where we were staying.
The main building is a huge open plan construction with no real walls, but only heavy duty gauze like netting. There is also a beautiful dam full of piranhas and a few caymans. The lodge was named after the serere bird, something that looks like a confused chicken.
At the camp we were upgraded yet again (!) to the most luxurious cabin - again no walls, except the netting - deep in the jungle.
There were 2 local spider monkeys hanging around the camp - they were very playful and, of cause, very naughty (they like to ride on the backs of the local pigs). We went paddling on the dam in the late afternoon - spectacularly beautiful with absolutely no wind and all the loud sounds of nature around us. The 10 minute walk in the night to the cabins in jaguar country was quite nerve-wrecking at first (for Johan at least). The night is alive with countless insects and animal noises and fireflies. Janine was thrilled to discover that you can locate insects at night by the reflections of their eyes - as with the alligators in the pampas. The jaguars come to visit the cabins most nights and one can hear then walking and grunting. The drops of the humidity condensing on the jungle leaves sound like rain during the night.
We went on a few guided walks with a brilliant local guide called Rudolfo. Our spanish is at a stage where we could easily follow him and even play the role of interpreters for the other 4 guests. We saw a huge 3m cobra, lots of different types of monkeys, leave cutter ants, huge metallic blue butterflies, macaws and a variety of insects and fresh jaguar prints. Some of the ants ( 2.5cm long) have a bite that burns for 8 hours. Other ants have such strong pinchers that they are used by the local people for stitches. Then there are the vicious wild pigs called piccaries - they are also referred to as "killer pigs" as they have eaten people alive (and the but of a man from Rurrenabaque who could not get quickly enough up a tree). The afternoon was spend relaxing and fishing piranhas - quite bigger than those in the pampas and a bright yellow this time!
We also went on a night walk with our guide. We often had to switch off our lights to listen. Incredible not to be able to see 30cm in front of you. We were eventually tracking a jaguar mom and her cubs. We came very close (probably 20m) and, although we could not see them in the bush, it was quite clear from her grunts that she did not appreciate our presence.
We made some jungle jewelry from nuts and seeds and also tattoos (lasting a few days) from the juice of a tropical fruit. Our guide knows the jungle inside out and showed us many different types of medicinal plants and also how to get a few liters of pure water out of a certain tree's branches.
We were sad to leave such a beautiful and unspoilt place even after we extended our stay with another day... (visit www.madidi-travel.com for more pics and info)
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